Functional Saccharides in Cosmetics
The monosaccharides L-Fucose and Sialic acid (N-acetylneuraminic acid) have dermatological properties that make them attractive as ingredients in cosmetic products. Jennewein Biotechnologie offers the monosaccharides L-Fucose and Sialic acid as cosmetic ingredients, as well as additional selected oligosaccharides.
Many dermatological studies have shown that L-Fucose, which is found naturally in human milk and also in brown algae, reduces skin-aging effects and has positive effects on sensitive skin. Sufficient concentrations of L-Fucose in skin creams have been clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by increasing the thickness of the dermis and epidermis, to avoid or reduce age-induced thinning of the skin by inhibiting the enzymes that cause this effect (endopeptidases MMP-9 and MMP-2) and to improve skin elasticity by stimulating the synthesis, accumulation and density of elastin fibers. Furthermore, L-Fucose can strengthen the epidermis by promoting the division of fibroblasts, it has a moisturizing effect by stimulating glycosaminoglycan biosynthesis improving hydration, and it protects skin cells from oxidative stress.
For those with sensitive skin, L-Fucose helps to reduce hypersensitive skin reactions by inhibiting lymphokines, and suppresses allergies such as contact dermatitis by binding to the Fucose–mannose receptor, which plays an important role in skin allergies. It is also thought that L-Fucose can help to alleviate the symptoms of psoriasis, because this disease interrupts the transport of glyco-conjugates with terminal L-Fucose residues from the cytoplasm to the plasma membrane of epidermal cells.
In Asia, the monosaccharide Sialic acid is often used as an ingredient in traditional food products and cosmetics. For example, bird’s nest soup is considered a delicacy in many Asian countries and extracts of the edible bird’s nests (swiftlets) are also used in cosmetic products with a “whitening effect”. These nests are made of solidified saliva and contain up to 9% sialic acid.
Jennewein Biotechnologie and its local partners are happy to provide more detailed information about our products relating to the development of cosmetic ingredients on request.